News

13 September

Finally! a new publication where we show more of the tablet woven bands from Valsgärde Vikig Age graves. With patterns!

The publication contains the conference proceedings from the last NESAT conference, where Karolina Pallin gave a presentation about the tablet woven bands from Valsgärde. These bands are quite unique, using a different patterning technique compared to for example Birka. The proceedings are open access and you can find the chapter about the Valsgärde bands at

https://www.academia.edu/106551324


and the full publication at

http://www.sarks.fi/masf/masf_12/masf_12.html




13 September,  2023

Belfast conference is now over and we are really happy that our presentation was so positively recieved! Read the abstracts below.


ACTS OF ART(E)FACTS: THE PSKOV CASE. THE USE OF 3D SOFTWARE TO ANALYSE AND
INTERPRET ARCHAEOLOGICAL DRESS FINDS

Abstract author(s): Pallin, Karolina (The Society for Textile Archaeology & Culture Studies - Texark) - Larsson, Annika (The Society for Textile Archaeology & Culture Studies - Texark; Uppsala University) - Lind, Kerstin (Linköping
University Dep. of Culture and Society; The Society for Textile Archaeology & Culture Studies - Texark)

This presentation focuses on a new method for analysing and interpreting fragmentary dress finds. The method, using
the fashion industry software CLO3D, was first tested within the dress research program at the Vasa museum in
Sweden, with good results. Usually, when interpreting archaeological textile/dress finds, the final work is based on so
many choices, assumptions and qualified guesses that it is hard to, in the end, know what is what. Often, the focus is
also to conclude the work in one or a few dress models. Especially if the result is recreated physically. In doing so, it is
inevitable to lose information along the way. The point of using a digital tool is that we can choose less and instead try

(almost) all aspects one needs in both the analysis, interpretation and recreation phases. The tool also leaves open to
go back and forth in the research process, an often wanted flexibility.


Viking dress is a field of research quite challenging to navigate. The archaeological finds are fragmentary, and the
interest is high. This field would benefit from access to a new method and tool for analysis and interpretation, and
several finds might need to be revisited.


In 2019 my colleagues and I had the opportunity to visit The Archaeological Center of Pskov region (Russia). We
received a warm welcome and an excellent guided tour of their collection and archaeological sites. One of the more
important finds for our research was the dress find in Chamber Grave 3 (excavation IV, 2006). The digital analysis,
interpretation and reconstructions attempts made here are based primarily on our photos and data collected.


This lecture is part of a comprehensive international research project entitled ACTS OF ART(e)FACTS. Additional
partial studies within the project are presented in sessions #498 and #601, respectively.




ACTS OF ART(E)FACTS: THE ÖVERHOGDAL CASE. THE CIRCULATION OF KNOWLEDGE –
MUSEUMS COLLECTIONS IN FLUX
Abstract author(s): Lind, Kerstin (The Society for Textile Archeologi & Culture Studies; Linköping University) -
Larsson, Annika - Pallin, Karolina (The Society for Textile Archeologi & Culture Studies; Uppsala University)

This presentation deals with the biographical movement of four textile objects from northern Sweden, which during
history, have been circulating in and out of different contexts. All four weaves depict figural scenery motifs and dates
between AD 900 and 1100. Based on the finding place they are called the Överhogdal tapestries, but are exhibited
in Jamtli museum in nearby Östersund. By referring to these tapestries, our aim is to show how collective as well as
individual knowledge is being created, shaped and reshaped in time and space, also within different social contexts.
Historical objects and museum collections have always constituted sources for research, but also for new creative
ideas in arts and crafts. The Överhogdal tapestries are a magnificent example of how ancient figural contents and
expressions have developed through archaeological, historical, and art science perspectives, has been developed. In
parallel, the artistic and artisanal expressions have been investigated and transformed into new products and works.
The objects also form an important basis for teaching. Different forces, which hardly can be understood as either
linear in time or unidirectional, have maintained, blocked, initiated or guided a more circulating movement in the
development of knowledge.


The Överhogdal figural hangings consist of four separate weaves with individual motifs, which once and again have
been torn out of context to become part of new complex networks of objects, people and institutions. Still, these
textiles and their motifs are brought in and out of different disciplinary and trans-disciplinary contexts. We aim in the
lecture to present one example that recently was carried out as a case study among teacher students in craft education,

at a Swedish University.


This lecture is part of a comprehensive international research project entitled “Acts of Art(e)Facts”. Additional partial
studies within the project are presented in session #601 #696, respectively.




CTS OF ART(E)FACTS: THE SNARTEMO CASE. NATIONAL HERITAGE AGENDA OR GLOBAL ART
AFFILIATION
Abstract author(s): Larsson, Annika (The Society for Textile Archaeology & Culture Studies; Uppsala University)
- Guennoun, Mohammed (The Society for Textile Archaeology & Culture Studies) - Lind, Kerstin (The Society for
Textile Archaeology & Culture Studies; Linköping University) - Pallin, Karolina (The Society for Textile Archaeology
& Culture Studies; Uppsala University)

This lecture deals with archaeologically accepted biases based on ideological agendas within the Scandinavian historiography.

The current case focuses on a textile find attributed to the Norwegian Iron Age gravefield at Snartemo, and
highlighs still living nationalist constructions within the history writing. We propose a change.


The Snartemo gravefinds were first published in 1935. When submitted into museum, a band enriched with colorful
geometric patterns seems to have already been in the collections. An Oriental cultural sphere was discussed. During
the Nazi occupation of Norway, however, the swastika band patterns were reinterpreted to fit a genuine Germanic
heritage. Attributed to a magnificent sword in chamber grave Snartemo V, copies were produced as ideological symbols

for the Nazi elite. Although critical of Nazism, and despite neither taking into account the art-historical affiliation nor the lack of a
specific archaeological context, the ideas of a genuine ancient Scandinavian identity fit well within the framework of
the national historiography. Aspects about confusions have been addressed (2003, 2012). But, in a 20-page article
published in the “Swedish history teachers‘ yearbook” (2019), the nationalist agenda is reinforced by images where
the author has cut and pasted among the band patterns to fit. The conspiratorial idea of “political historical revisionism”

regarding the scientific facts, worldwide spread, is scary.


In conclusion, we present another example on the visually spread idea of an isolated Scandinavian cultural heritage
to the next generation, globally implemented already to young children. In a new interpretation (an animated film
from Japan) of the world-famous Swedish children‘s story about “Ronja, the Robber‘s Daughter” – Ronja becomes,
through symbolic textiles and clothing, a Scandinavian Viking daughter.


This lecture is part of an extensive international research project entitled “Acts of Art(e)Facts”. Additional partial
studies within the project are presented in session #498 and #696 respectively.



3 May, 2023

At the 29th EAA Annual Meeting in Belfast 2023 we will give in total 3 presentations under the umbrella project "ACTS OF ART(e)FACTS":


1) The Pskov case. The use of 3D software to analyse and interpret archaeological dress finds. Main author: Karolina Pallin.


2)The Överhogdal case. The circulation of knowledge – Museums collections in flux. Main author: Kerstin Lind.


3)The Snartemo case.National Heritage agenda or Global Art affiliation. Main author: Annika Larsson.





1 September, 2022

We are excited to be in Budapest to give in total 3 presentations on the 28th EAA Annual Meeting.

First presentation will be on Friday, September 2 in the session "Dressing Europe: Mapping and Disseminating European Textile Heritage through Digital Resources". The other two will be on Saturday September 3 in the session "Silk: A Catalyst for Interconnection in the Sixth to Tenth Centuries AD/CE".



Abstracts:


INFORMATION AND POSSIBILITIES LOST BETWEEN THE DBMS AND THE PRESENTATION LAYER: DO WE KNOW WHAT WE ASK THE DATABASE FOR?
Abstract author(s): Pallin, Karolina (TexArk – The society for textile archaeology and culture studies; Textile studies, Uppsala University)
Abstract format: Oral


This paper’s primary focus is to address the problem of extracting and consolidating detailed information between
a database backend and a filtered view in a presentation layer. It will also give insight into how we worked with a
purpose-built relational database for the textile collection at the Vasa Museum in Sweden.
The focus for the database development at the Vasa Museum has been designing it for researchers who need full
primary data. However, while a query gives a defined dataset, most researchers only have access to and knowledge
about filtered views, such as the most common search functions for collections online.
SELECT
find.find_id,
type.*,
array_to_string(array_agg(DISTINCT beam.beam), ‘, ‘::text) AS
beams,
technique1_primary.primary_technique_eng,
technique2_type.technique_type_eng
FROM find
JOIN type ON type.find_id = find.find_id
JOIN jointable_find__beam ON find.find_id =
jointable_find__beam.find_id
JOIN beam ON jointable_find__beam.beam_id = beam.beam_id
JOIN technique1_primary ON type.technique1_primary_id =
technique1_primary.technique_primary_id
LEFT JOIN technique2_type ON type.technique2_type_id =
technique2_type.technique_type_id
GROUP BY
type.type_id,
find.find_id,
technique2_type.technique_type_eng,
technique1_primary.primary_technique_eng;
A simple query like this above will with slight changes, none of them erroneous per se, show very different results. A
more significant query used to service a filtered view in a presentation layer, works under the same principles. Principles
who are not known to the researcher using the filtered view’s search functions to find research data.
We can not ask researchers to know how to write SQL queries. Also, we can not ask from instances sharing their collection
database to give everyone access to a SQL query tool. With more and more digitized collections, this put the
scientific value of future research at risk and therefore, it needs to be explained, highlighted and discussed. Do we as
researchers actually know what we ask the database for?

____________________________


VIKING BLISS : SILK AND SQUARE KUFIC TEXTILES IN PRE-CHRISTIAN SCANDINAVIA
Abstract author(s): Larsson, Annika (Uppsala universitet; The Society for Textile Archaeology & Culture Studies) - Guennoun, Mohamed (The Society for Textile Archaeology & Culture Studies)
Abstract format: Oral


In 2017, I presented an exhibition about the importance of silk among Viking Age textiles found in pre-Christian boatand
chamber graves in central Scandinavian areas. It has long been debated whether this silk originated in Islamic
Central Asia or in Christian Byzantium. Already in 2007, I suggested that silk in pre-Christian Scandinavia would be
traced to Central Asian production, and found way westward on the Russian Silk Roads - until necropolises such as
Birka, ceased.
There is also a discussion about the production area for contemporary tablet-woven bands made of silk, with an extra
floating layer of weft threads in silver. A predominant view is that they were made in Scandinavia as the patterns are
considered to be of “ancient Nordic” character, but made from imported material. During the exhibition work it was
discovered that the patterns are Islamic expressions in ancient geometric writing, so-called Square Kufi. However,
when an American art historian wrongly claimed in a call “to the entire world” that this writing did not appear until 500
years later and that our reading was also incorrect, the proposal aroused worldwide critical opinion both in media
and among academics.
In this lecture, the ancient Square Kufic script, as well as the rich finds of Viking Age textiles with Square Kufic inscriptions
found in Scandinavia and Russia, will be detailed presented. The aim is to highlight the importance of silk as well
as Kufic expressions in Viking Age burial customs, which allows focus to shift from local traditions concerning interpretations
on Viking Age ceremonial costumes, into a much larger interdisciplinary and Eurasian cultural context. Finally,
we also shed light on Kufic patterns in textile folk art, which have survived from Viking Age until present day in both
Scandinavia and Russia, despite the symbolism has lost its Islamic meaning.

___________________________


THE REALITY OF VIKING AFTERLIFE: THE PRESENCE OF SILK IN THE VIKING NARRATIVE
Abstract author(s): Pallin, Karolina (TexArk – The society for textile archaeology and culture studies; Textile studies, Uppsala University)
Abstract format: Oral


This paper presents a study within the larger project “The narrative of Viking legacy”, which studies the difference
between today’s narrative of the Viking Age and the archaeological material. The pilot study was presented at the
conference The Viking Age as a Foreign Place, at The Center for Viking Age Studies, Oslo. This second study is presented
for the first time here at the EAA annual meeting.
226
Grave goods can be seen as objects supposed to accompany humans into the afterlife. The Viking afterlife is, according
to the Sagas, a mythological place. However, the reality of the Viking afterlife is how we know them. A reality
where the archaeological material is of most importance. The Vikings live in the stories we create about them and
the effect these stories have on us and our society. They live in the “Viking narrative”.
In Scandinavia, silk first appears in the grave goods in the Viking era, marking a change in available luxury goods.
As one of a handful of luxury goods that archaeologically defines this era, silk should naturally be a large part of the
Viking narrative.
This study explores Viking attributes found in the Viking narrative, with a particular focus on silk as a defining item and
a defining luxury concept. The study shows that silk is found in some parts of the narrative and is absent in others. The
aim of this paper is to discuss this clash in the narrative and why this is both interesting and problematic.





24 June, 2022

TexArk based projectActs of Art(e)facts has recieved a grant from Nordisk kulturfond.

This Swedish, Moroccan and British project will explore how textile patterns originally associated with Islam found their way into the Viking textile tradition.


About the project:
A project wishing to present a research-based bilingual craft film in English/Arabic for global dissemination at an international archaeological conference in Hungary. The project has demonstrated through research that Islamic craft traditions travelled from the Middle East to Northern Europe in the Viking Age, and had a major impact on Viking textile traditions. The vision of the project is to re-globalise craft symbols that have mistakenly come to legitimise Nordic national romanticism and xenophobic Viking myths.


https://www.nordiskkulturfond.org/en/inspirational-projects/acts-of-art-e-facts/




25 March, 2022

We have had three abstracts accepted to the 28th EAA Annual Meeting in Budapest, Hungary, 31 August - 3 September 2022.

https://www.e-a-a.org/EAA2022/Home/EAA2022/


Viking Bliss : Silk and Square Kufic textiles in pre-Christian Scandinavia. By Annika Larsson for the session Silk: A Catalyst for Interconnection in the Sixth to Tenth Centuries AD/CE.


Abstract soon to be presented here.


____________________________________


The reality of Viking afterlife: The presence of silk in the Viking narrative. By Karolina Pallin for the session Silk: A Catalyst for Interconnection in the Sixth to Tenth Centuries AD/CE.


This paper presents a study within the larger project “The narrative of Viking legacy”, which studies the difference between today’s narrative of the Viking Age and the archaeological material. The pilot study was presented at the conference The Viking Age as a Foreign Place, at The Center for Viking Age Studies, Oslo. This second study is presented for the first time here at the EAA annual meeting. 

Grave goods can be seen as objects supposed to accompany humans into the afterlife. The Viking afterlife is, according to the Sagas, a mythological place. However, the reality of the Viking afterlife is how we know them. A reality where the archaeological material is of most importance. The Vikings live in the stories we create about them and the effect these stories have on us and our society. They live in the “Viking narrative” 

In Scandinavia, silk first appears in the grave goods in the Viking era, marking a change in available luxury goods. As one of a handful of luxury goods that archaeologically defines this era, silk should naturally be a large part of the Viking narrative. 

This study explores Viking attributes found in the Viking narrative, with a particular focus on silk as a defining item and a defining luxury concept. The study shows that silk is found in some parts of the narrative and is absent in others. The aim of this paper is to discuss this clash in the narrative and why this is both interesting and problematic. 


______________________________________


Information and possibilities lost between the DBMS and the Presentation layer: Do we know what we ask the database for? By Karolina Pallin for the session Dressing Europe: Mapping and Disseminating European Textile Heritage through Digital Resources.


This paper’s primary focus is to address the problem of extracting and consolidating detailed information between a database backend and a filtered view in a presentation layer. It will also give insight into how we worked with a purpose-built relational database for the textile collection at the Vasa Museum in Sweden. 

The focus for the database development at the Vasa Museum has been designing it for researchers who need full primary data. However, while a query gives a defined dataset, most researchers only have access to and knowledge about filtered views, such as the most common search functions for collections online. 


SELECT  

find.find_id, 

type.*, 

array_to_string(array_agg(DISTINCT beam.beam), ', '::text) AS beams, 

technique1_primary.primary_technique_eng, 

technique2_type.technique_type_eng 


FROM find 

JOIN type ON type.find_id = find.find_id 

JOIN jointable_find__beam ON find.find_id = jointable_find__beam.find_id 

JOIN beam ON jointable_find__beam.beam_id = beam.beam_id 

JOIN technique1_primary ON type.technique1_primary_id = technique1_primary.technique_primary_id 

LEFT JOIN technique2_type ON type.technique2_type_id = technique2_type.technique_type_id 

GROUP BY  


type.type_id,  

find.find_id, 

technique2_type.technique_type_eng,  

technique1_primary.primary_technique_eng; 

 

A simple query like this above will with slight changes, none of them erroneous per se, show very different results. A more significant query used to service a filtered view in a presentation layer, works under the same principles. Principles who are not known to the researcher using the filtered view’s search functions to find research data. 

We can not ask researchers to know how to write SQL queries. Also, we can not ask from instances sharing their collection database to give everyone access to a SQL query tool. With more and more digitized collections, this put the scientific value of future research at risk and therefore, it needs to be explained, highlighted and discussed. Do we as researchers actually know what we ask the database for? 

_______________________________



14 December, 2021

Home again after the The Viking Age as a Foreign Place-conference in Oslo. The conference presentation and poster showed the work done so far in the project The narratives of Viking legacy.



7 October, 2021

New film today:

"Annika Larsson's basic message regarding her Viking textile research is that the era, called the Scandinavian Viking Age (c. 750-1050 AD), should be divided into at least the following overall cultural periods:


1) 750-970: the pre-Christian so-called "Birka period"

   1b) 850-970: pre-Christian Eurasian influences


2) 970-1050: Christian "Missionairy period"

   2b) 1020-1050: Christian "Runstone period"


The movie Runstenar mot Rasism (Runestones against Racism) tells about the latter period, ie. Runestone period, where Christian crosses and baptismal garments are symbols of the cultural and religious affiliation in Eastern Scandinavia. Thus, the rune stones of the time can in no way be linked to pre-Christian ideologies as warlike Asa gods, like Odin and Tor. At the time, even the pre-Christian burial condition had ceased. The film has a critical approach to ideas about rune stones as symbols for the Vikings, a nationalistic idea which is spread both within school teaching and in media all over the world. With this said it would be possible to follow the message in the film (13 min) allthough in Swedish. An English version will be linked till as soon as possible during the autumn.

https://youtu.be/-nJlNE9sdYM




1 September, 2021

Now you can watch the full version of the presentation "Brocaded tablet-woven bands from Viking age boat graves in Valsgärde, Sweden - different techniques, similar appearance".

Follow the link below.

https://youtu.be/QxiPeT-1GBg




21 August, 2021

On the conference NESAT XIV next week, TexArk is represented by two presentations. Both are pre-recorded and will be published on the TexArk Youtube channel after the conference, September 1.

Watch a preview of one of the presentations, "Brocaded tablet-woven bands from Viking age boat graves in Valsgärde, Sweden - different techniques, similar appearance" in the link below.

https://youtu.be/0NjuFECOKvI




10 August, 2021

Annika Larsson's article Asian Silk in Scandinavian Viking Age Graves - Based on the boat- and chamber graves in the Eastern Mälar Valley

is now published in the peer reviewed journal BULLETIN OF THE MUSEUM OF FAR EASTERN ANTIQUITIES 81. Read the article here




2 Februari, 2021

Today we launch a new research project, The narratives of Viking legacy. 

The research project aims to understand the narratives that build the modern image of the Viking and Viking age. Looking at the source material, what are used to build the narratives, and what is left out? Who claim heritage, and why?


Read more here.




31 January, 2021

Book release: Bulletin for the Museums of Far Eastern Antiquities

Earlier this week the Bulletin Asia and Scandinavia - New perspectives on the early medieval silk roads. Bulletin of the Museum of far eastern antiquities no. 81 was released. In one of the chapters in this peer reviewed journal, Annika Larsson presents and discusses the archaeological textile and dress finds from Early medieval (i.e. Viking age) central Sweden. Annika Larsson's chapter is as far as we know, the most comprehensive and professionally researched presentation of textile finds from Viking age Valsgärde burials up to this date. The book release event was in English and can be seen here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CmxjZBA1_HA&list=WL&index=9&ab_channel=V%C3%A4rldskulturmuseerna


The journal is in English and is avaliable in the museum online shop, follow the link below for more information. 

https://butik.varldskulturmuseerna.se/bocker-kataloger/asia-and-scandinavia-new-perspectives-on-the-early-medieval-silk.html



6 November

The conference Beauty, Power, Mysteries. Silk in Byzantine Commonwealth and beyond. The material evidence, is to be held online.

We are presenting Viking Age silk in present-day Central Sweden. From a textile technical perspective. We will talk about the contradictory techniques in the tablet woven borders from Valsgärde, and maybe a bit about embroidery as well.




13 August

We have kindly been invited to the conference Beauty, Power, Mysteries. Silk in
Byzantine Commonwealth and beyond. The material evidence, to be held in Poland in November.

If the current pandemic situation let us we will participate.The conference will cover the topic mentioned above, you can find the title of our presentation and the abstract here at a closer date of the conference.




15 April

In May this year TexArk was supposed to present 3 papers on Iron age textiles at the conference NESAT XIV. The conference has been postponed a year and will be held in May 2021.


Of course this is expected under the circumstances but it will mean that the articles on the talks will be published earliest in December 2021. The upcoming articles are:


- Silk Samite in the Viking Age female Boatgrave 36, Gamla Uppsala: a Textile Review by Annika Larsson 

- Brocaded tablet-woven bands from Viking age boat graves in Valsgärde, Sweden - different techniques, similar appearance by Karolina Pallin

- Reconstruction of Woollen Cloth from the Boatgraves in Valsgärde, Sweden by Maria Kronander




24 February

The research paper "The position of craft and practical research within the academic world: A grounded theory of problems and solutions" is now published in The Journal 15 / 2019, Museum of applied art, Belgrade.


After a quite long illness we are now back on track and can present a new peer reviewed research paper! The journal can be found at

https://mpu.rs/journal/all_journals.php?zbornik=15


Abstract:

The study of applied arts through theory and methods grounded in knowledge of crafts is still an outsider within the academy and in the scientific arena. This research paper explores the field of craft- and practical research, with focus on practical researchers and their experienced position in the academic discussion. By generating a grounded theory about the field of craft- and practical research in Sweden, the field can be discussed and understood as a part of the academic world. The generated theory shows that the main concern for researches within the field is a lack of acceptance of their research by other parts of the scientific community. The grounded theory highlights four important areas that need to be established and discussed within the field itself and with the rest of the academic world. This is important in order to understand and accept practical knowledge as a base for both theory and method in scientific research. These areas are: economy, scientific validity,
communication and research purpose. The finished theory and theoretical model can be used as a tool for growing the potential of practical research within the field of applied arts and for gaining acceptance from the broader scientific community. The theory is grounded in the Swedish field of practical research, but it can also be used in the international context and be modified thereafter.


Key Words: craft research, practical research, grounded theory, scientific validity, communication, acceptance, material culture, techne, practical knowledge


                                                                                                                                                                                                           -   Karolina Pallin




13 November 2019

Research on the tablet woven bands from Valsgärde now published


2019. Vikingatida brickväv från Valsgärdes båtgravar, en teknikbeskrivning samt några tankar (Viking age tablet weave from the boat-graves in Valsgärde: a technical description and some thoughts). Bachelor thesis, Department of Archaeology and Ancient History, Uppsala University. Read on Researchgate or Academia.


Part of the project Brocaded tablet-woven bands from Viking age boat graves in Valsgärde, Sweden: Different techniques, similar appearance.

An elaboration on the weaving techniques and production aspects will be presented at the conference NESAT XIV in Finland 2020.


Abstract

In the collections of Uppsala university, cared for by the university Museum Gustavianum, is the collection of finds from the Valsgärde cemetery, located 4 km north of Uppsala. The cemetery contained boat graves, chamber graves, cremation graves and other finds. Among the boat graves, dating from around c 600–c 1000 AD, some includes textile finds. The primary source material for this study are the tablet woven bands found in three of the Viking age boat graves.

     I first came across these tablet woven borders in 2014 when writing an early stage thesis in Textile history (Textilvetenskap), a subject taught at Uppsala university at the department of Art History. This article is based on the research I carried out then and have since continued with. The research focuses on the weaving techniques and materials used in the bands. An attempt to work with a theoretical framework based in crafts research and crafts as a concept and idea – instead of just being a method for understanding the production process from a technical perspective – is also made.

     The bands are brocaded with metal thread, similar to the Birka bands. However, in the Valsgärde bands a spun thread is used in all bands but one. What makes the bands from Valsgärde particularly interesting are the two different weaving techniques present. Some of the bands are patterned with the quite common technique “lifted warp threads”, and some with an additional weft in a soumak technique. Metal brocaded bands patterned with soumak are unusual both in the Viking age and in the later medieval material. The theoretical framework of the study shows that the bands can be interpreted as part of a symbolic funeral outfit. If the bands are used prior to the funeral is not known. The study draws on material from both earlier and later periods to discuss why this dress decor appears in Viking age Scandinavia, and particularly in East Sweden. The fashion of the Frankish crusade era take part in the discussion and so does the tirazsystem of early Islam.

     The study concludes that understanding Viking age dress is much more than knowing what the persons wore. The symbolic dress in the graves tells us about some kind of fashion – or vestment – system and if we can read the code, we would be a lot closer to an understanding about the Scandinavian mentality of the time. This however is a task for a larger study, this one has only shown where to start.


Keywords: Boat grave, fashion, tablet weaving, tiraz, Valsgärde, Viking.

                                                                                                                                                                                                           -   Karolina Pallin





8 November 2019

Racism and Religion Conference 6-8 November


Today, November 8, we are represented at the conference Racism and Religion with the presentation Islamophobia within the Viking age research field. The conference is arranged by CEMFOR (Centre for Multidisciplinary Studies on Racism), Uppsala University https://cemfor.uu.se/events/conference/conference-2019/. The presentation is held by Dr. Annika Larsson and is based on her many years of research and experiences within the field.


Abstract:

The end of the 19th century was successful for the Nordic history writing. Archaeological, ethnological and art historical disciplines strengthened, together with grandiose operas, literary works and educational museums, the Nordic identity. Ethnographic museums, displaying exotic collections from foreign people, reinforced the differences between us and them. Ideas of racial biology followed. In this spirit, the Nordic Viking was created. Today’s worldwide Viking trends are at least as dangerous as the Antisemitism of the last century, now also Islamophobic. It is more important than ever highlighting historical integration with the East. Regrettably, the Nordic countries lack, unlike many other countries, museums exploring the Islamic Golden Age in World history. Nor does the archaeological discipline include knowledge of Viking Age cultural exchange with other than Christian areas. Arabic coins in the Scandinavian soil are said to testify trade, caused by the Vikings desire for silver. It’s high time to admit that Islamic coins contained the Muslim creed – often worn on the deceased’s breasts. However, slaves from the East are said then, to be buried in Scandinavian graves – despite the fact that slave trade actually went the opposite direction. The Islamophobia within Scandinavian archaeological research will here be problematized.        

                                                                                                                                                                                                          -   Annika Larsson





10 October 2019

Home again with new knowledge, contacts and input!


We are now home from our research trip to Russia, made by 3 people in our research network - 2 researchers and one documentary film maker. The reason for the trip to take place now was to present the paper “Central Asian Silk Culture in Viking Age Scandinavia” at the 4th IASSRT symposium (International association for the study of silk road textiles), held in Kislovodsk. We would like to thank the hosts and colleagues at the symposium, including the study tours, for a wonderful time!


When traveling we also took the opportunity to visit both colleagues, museums and archaeological sites important for the understanding of our research. We would like to thank the Swedish consul in St Petersburg for help and interest in our research - and of course the wonderful and helpful colleagues at The Archaeological centre of Pskov region, The Pskov state historical-architectural and art museum-reserve and at The Humanitarian institute of Yaroslav the Wise Novgorod State University. Thank you all so much!


The trip was made possible by generous grants from The Swedish Institute (https://si.se/) and Estrid Ericsons stiftelse (http://www.estrid-ericsons-stiftelse.nu/). Thank you!






13 September, 2019

On our way to russia


We are now on our way! Starting with a week based in St Petersburg going by train to meet colleagues in Veliky Novgorod and Pskov. We also plan an excursion to Staraja Ladoga and of course to the Hermitage and Peter the Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography (the Kunstkamera). On September 23 we move on to participate in the Symposium which is in the town of Kislovodsk in the Caucasian mountains. Two days of symposium papers and several days of excursion, master classes and special exhibitions awaits. The trip ends in Moscow with some museum visits organized by the Symposium. If this sounds interesting, you can follow the trip on our Facebook page. Read more about the symposium here http://www.iassrtsymposium.com/.






2 September, 2019

Three papers for NESAT XIV, to be held in Finland 2020


Three of our members got the delightful news that they are accepted for the NESAT XIV (North European Symposium for Archaeological Textiles) conference in Oulu Finland, May 2020. Annika Larsson is presenting the paper Silk Samite in the Viking Age female Boatgrave 36, Gamla Uppsala: a Textile Review. Karolina Pallin is presenting the paper Brocaded tablet-woven bands from Viking age boat graves in Valsgärde, Sweden - different techniques, similar appearance and Maria Kronander is presenting the paper Reconstruction of Woollen Cloth from the Boatgraves in Valsgärde, Sweden. For updates about the conference program see

https://www.nesatxiv.org/.






20 May, 2019

Accepted to the 4th IASSRT symposium, to be held in Russia 2019.


Two of our members, Annika Larsson and Karolina Pallin are accepted as speakers at the 4th IASSRT (International Association for the Study of Silk Road Textiles) symposium in Kislovodsk, Russia, September 2019. The symposium is hosted by Nasledie Institute Scientific Research Institute of Archeology and Ancient History of the North Caucasus (Stavropol). The presentation is based on Annika Larsson's article Asian Silk in Scandinavian Viking Age Graves: Based on the boat- and chamber graves in the Eastern Mälar Valley (peer-reviewed, in print). The symposium are held in Kislovodsk September 23 to 29, with an additional two study days in St. Petersburg and Moscow. For more information about the symposium see

http://www.iassrtsymposium.com/.